The serum issue: how to choose one, layer them, and build a routine that works

Serums are where most people get stuck in skincare — and understandably so. There are hundreds of them, each promising to solve a different concern, with wildly different textures and ingredients. It’s a lot.

But don’t let that overwhelm you. Serums are, quite literally, the step that transforms your skin. They’re the most active, potent part of any serious routine — and often the difference between a basic setup and one that genuinely delivers.

Let’s break it down.

WHAT IS A SERUM?

A serum is a lightweight, concentrated treatment designed to deliver potent ingredients deep into the skin. Thanks to their smaller molecular size, they absorb easily and work at a level where visible change happens — targeting concerns like dehydration, dullness, breakouts, and pigmentation with serious precision.

This is where brands show their formulation credentials. A well-made serum is often the hero product in a skincare range — and rightly so.

WHERE DO SERUMS FIT IN YOUR ROUTINE?

Apply serums after cleansing and before moisturiser. They’re your treatment step — formulated to get to work before your moisturiser seals it all in.

TEXTURES TO EXPECT

Serums come in different formats depending on the formulation and function. You’ll see:

• Water-light fluids

• Milky emulsions

• Lightweight oils

• Silky gels

Most are designed to be layered comfortably without disrupting your routine or interfering with make-up.

TYPES OF SERUMS

Serums aren’t one-size-fits-all — they’re formulated to target specific concerns with high-performance actives. Here are some of the most common types:

• Antioxidant Serums – Ingredients like green tea extract, vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10 help protect against free radical damage and premature ageing.
  (Think: Zelens Power C, Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe)

• Hydrating Serums – Hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, and panthenol attract and hold moisture while supporting the skin barrier.
  (Think: Medik8 Hydr8 B5, Alpha-H Hyaluronic 8)

• Exfoliating Serums – AHAs (like glycolic or lactic), BHAs (like salicylic), or enzymes gently resurface for smoother, clearer skin.
  (Think: Alpha-H Liquid Gold, Medik8 Press & Clear)

• Peptide Serums – Support collagen production, improve firmness, and help soften the appearance of fine lines.
  (Think: Medik8 Liquid Peptides, Zelens Power E)

• Brightening Serums – Niacinamide, liquorice root, and arbutin help target uneven tone and pigmentation.
  (Think: Alpha-H Vitamin C, Zelens Lumino)

• Soothing/Calming Serums – Ideal for reactive or redness-prone skin. Look for calming botanicals and plant oils like broccoli seed and rosehip (Votary), alongside azelaic acid or beta-glucan for barrier support.
  (Think: Votary Super Seed Serum, Zelens Power D, Medik8 Calmwise)

• Retinoid Serums – Vitamin A-based actives like retinal or retinol support renewal, smooth texture, and reduce visible signs of ageing.
  (Think: Medik8 Crystal Retinal, Alpha-H Vitamin A Serum)

HOW TO CHOOSE A SERUM

Unlike moisturisers or cleansers — which are often chosen based on skin type — serums should be selected based on your skin concern.

Think of serums as targeted treatments. You choose them depending on what your skin needs most right now:

• Dehydration → Hyaluronic acid, panthenol, or polyglutamic acid

• Breakouts or congestion → Start with salicylic acid or mandelic acid, then follow with a niacinamide or Vitamin B serum to regulate oil and calm inflammation

• Redness or sensitivity → Look for ingredients like plant seed oils, beta-glucan, panthenol, or centella

• Pigmentation → Vitamin C, liquorice root, arbutin

• Signs of ageing → Peptides or retinoids to help smooth and firm

Oiliness and dryness — while considered skin types — can also be treated as concerns, especially if they’re linked to barrier issues or over-cleansing.

WHAT IF YOU HAVE MORE THAN ONE CONCERN?

Prioritise anything inflammatory or reactive — acne, rosacea, perioral dermatitis, psoriasis. These are always addressed first, as they can lead to longer-term damage if left untreated.

Once inflammation is under control, we recommend focusing on:

• Hydration — because every skin needs it

• Prevention — antioxidants to help defend against environmental damage and premature ageing

From there, you can start addressing more specific concerns like pigmentation, loss of elasticity, or uneven tone.

You can also find excellent multi-functional serums that combine hydration, antioxidant protection, and barrier support in one formula. We’re huge fans of these for simplicity and results.

CAN YOU LAYER SERUMS?

Yes — but don’t go overboard.

You can absolutely layer serums, especially if they’ve been formulated to work well together. As a general rule, we recommend no more than two — or three if one of them is doubling as your moisturiser. Layer from thinnest to thickest texture, and always finish with SPF in the morning.

Use your morning and evening routines strategically:

• AM: Hydration, antioxidant protection, pigmentation support

• PM: Repair, rejuvenation, and long-term skin resilience

SERUMS WORK BEST WHEN THE BASICS ARE SOLID

Cleansing properly, moisturising consistently, and wearing SPF daily — these are the non-negotiables. Without them, even the best serum won’t deliver its full potential. Once your foundations are in place, that’s when a great serum can step in — to treat, to elevate, and to take your skin to the next level.

FINAL WORD

Serums are the most exciting, innovative part of your skincare routine — and the step where you’ll often see the biggest results.

This is where a brand either shines or falls short. You can get away with a basic cleanser. But a poorly formulated serum? It shows.

If you’re going to spend anywhere — spend here.

Still unsure where to start? Drop your questions in the comments or DM us — we’re always happy to help you find the right formula for your skin.